Wednesday, February 17, 2016

WEST TEXAS AND NEW MEXICO... A WHOLE OTHER WORLD FOR US

WEST TEXAS

West Texas along I-10 is nothing but desert doted with a few mountains.  We were really questioning our decision going to Big Bend National Park with every hour we drove along  flat I-10, but as soon as we got off the interstate, our interest perked up.  What beautiful landscape with only cattle and soaring mountains and real Texas ranches and it only became richer with every mile closer to our destination.


Our morning view from our campsite.  We would have stayed longer, but there was a large gathering of mountain bikers for a race and every space was taken.  At least we had 4 days here.
This area of west Texas is considered a dark zone.  Outdoor lights are off early so everyone can enjoy the stars.  The few towns in the entire area have populations in the hundreds. The town of Terlingua, just outside the park, is a place where most people live off the grid with only their art, music and each other for company.  I embrace minimalism, but I draw the line when people use discarded cars as fencing.
Terlingua does have a wonderful restaurant with 2 for 1 burger dinners on Mondays and a local singer to entertain.  Many people from the RV park were there as a night out.  

This is all our camera could take in, but in reality, you are surrounded in this splendor.

Closed Canyon hike with no rain forecasted, otherwise search for a different hike.
I am climbing into the hot springs in the park with the Rio Grande and Mexico in the background.  The springs were wonderfully warm but the river was very cold.  Five miles from the springs is a boarder crossing where someone will row you across the river to Mexico...Wednesday thru Saturday only!

About the size of a pig, this javelina is actually a rodent that smells like a skunk.


The twisting road winds through the park for miles.

Notice the truck and car in the foreground.

Small dust storms are a common site.

Big Bend was one of the few places I would like to return to next year only because there was so much more to see.  It is rugged and beautiful with only the sounds of the wild animals at night.  There are many flat roads that offer great biking for those who want to avoid strenuous climbs.

ON OUR WAY TO NEW MEXICO

On our way out of Big Bend and into New Mexico, we traveled through the little towns of Marfa and Fort Davis.  Supreme Justice Scalia passed away at a ranch in the area of Marfa, otherwise no one would know of this place.  It is famous for a beautiful hotel where the cast of GIANTS resided while filming that old movie.  (Elizabeth Taylor, Rock Hudson and James Dean)  I hope it was as beautiful then as it is now.  The last word on Marfa is the existence of unexplained lights that people see against the mountains.  It is popular enough to stage a viewing area.

Fort Davis protected transportation routes to El Paso from marauder attacks from the 1850s for nearly 50 years.
 A few of the buildings are maintained by the National Park Service with a small staff.  That assignment must be as remote as it was 150 years ago.  Not much happening at this location, but it was a pleasant way to spend a beautiful Texas winter day, especially when it is free with a Senior Pass.

A man and his RV...inseparable
DEMING, NEW MEXICO

Not wanting to travel more than a few hours a day, our next stop was the desert town of Deming with its strong Mexican influence 30 mile north of the boarder.  It is dry and flat until the mountains rise out of nowhere.  Crossing into Mexico at Palomas  and visiting  The Pink Store is a frequent  experience for people in the area.  We were lucky enough to enjoy Valentine celebrations with free food, drinks and dancing.

The Pink Store is a restaurant, bar and store for people to gather at.  There is a dental office,  eye glass store and pharmacy where retired Americans can get their needs met.  Need your teeth cleaned? ....$35.

Retires know where to find a good party.















Silver City,  NM

Almost to the boarder of Arizona is the Gila
National Forest and Cliff Dwelling.  Close to the year 1300 AD, a group of people came and occupied this area for about 50 years.  In that time they built shelters in the caves and grew crops on top of the masa and along the river.  Why they came and what drove them out is a mystery, but the park service took over the site to protect it.  It was discovered in 1878, but vandals came and not knowing its history, took what they needed through out the years.

It was a vigorous hike to reach this point from where the car was parked.

The wooden poles are original part of the structure.
 These poles were part of the roof structure or second floor in some areas.  Smaller rooms were used as bedrooms.  If that is true, that says something to me about the sophistication of these people.  Various family members wanted privacy.
The Park Service offers tour through the dwelling, but you really have to watch your step.
 
What a view they had sitting in their caves, but at this elevation, they did receive snow in the winter.  The cave itself provided cool temperatures in the summer.







































It is thought that this room served as a main gathering place.

The road to this place through the National Forest is up and down mountains which still harbor snow even on a warm day and around tight curves.  The one way 40 mile trip took 2 hours and you dare not bring anything larger than a 20 foot RV and a good truck to pull it.

ANOTHER STATE AND ANOTHER ADVENTURE...ARIZONA.



Thursday, February 4, 2016

Motoring through the Great State of Texas

January and February, 2016

EAST TEXAS

This was a beautiful and friendly place to stop for a few days.  Texas Airstream Harbor, Zavalla, Texas is a restful place to stay and collect your thoughts after daily sightseeing.  Airstream parks are doted throughout the country and were more plentiful in the past, but this is a gem with great residents and peaceful a atmosphere.  It is situated on Lake Sam Rayburn and has great fishing and boating and only small gators. It was chilly when we were there however.
The lake is Sam Rayburn which is the largest lake completely within Texas boarders.  

AUSTIN, TX

The beautiful capital has a range of dining opportunities, music and politics.  We took a tour of the city, but so much information was overwhelming. The pictures below are from our extensive tour. It is a busy place even on an early Saturday morning.  Music and  food festivals are scheduled most weekends.  But there are other little known facts about the city.
Driskill Hotel, in downtown has southern style.

Lady Bird Lake has biking and walking paths on both banks.

Austin starts the Hill Country.

The free tour of the capital was so informative.

University of Texas football stadium is very popular since there is no professional team.

I didn't realize this was the final resting place of Chris Kyle.  It was a huge procession I understand.
A tomb stone has to be approved by the Texas State Cemetery governing body and might take as long as 3 years.

Business wise, Austin is known for high tech companies and is nicknamed Silicone Hills.  Richard Garriott, who has duel citizenship, built a British style castle in the hills of Austin.  He is a video game engineer of some note.  Since I am not interested in gaming, I did not recognize his name.  However his father, Owen Garriott was an American astronaut.  Richard was wealthy enough to buy a seat on a Russian space capsule.  The only father/son combination to go to space.

Voodoo Donuts
After walking all day in Austin, we stopped at Voodoo Donuts.  Even in a donut shop, there is a small stage on the right for music.  There was a long line for donuts and coffee in mid afternoon.

After Austin, our next stop was north of San Antonio near New Braunfels and the Hill Country. We camped along the Guadalupe River where fishing and tubbing are attractive summer activities. It was an introduction to rocks, scrub brush and harsh land features.  In other words, not like Michigan.


Our campsite is just to the right...Denny should be fishing for our supper.
Unique house along the river with a view of the country side.
RIVER WALK, DOWNTOWN

Many friends don't know that I was born here.  It was really something special to be back to this beautiful city which I left so many years ago.

We  stayed at a beautiful RV park just south of downtown about 5 miles along the San Antonio River.
Riding our bikes to see the sites was such a treat on temperate winter days.  The entire downtown is very safe, with ambassadors answering questions and keeping an eye on things.  We did take the river boat ride, but only ate once along the many restaurants on the River.  Historical tours are more our hobby.


The Alamo is no longer a church, but it is so important to Texans that men must remove their hats when entering to honor this place where so many died.  Texas has such a diverse history, overseen by 2 countries, an independent country itself, and finally part of the United States.
REMEMBER THE ALAMO.

I never realized that the walk is actually below street level.

One can walk for many miles along both side of the river.  The city has invested so much into making this a destination.
King William Historic District,  a few blocks to the south of downtown.

Many Germans came to settle here in the 1850's, and after establishing businesses and farms, these homes were built in the late 1800's to 1910.  Many are privately owned, but a few are open for tours.  This is a small sample of the different architectual styles







The National Park Service is in charge of the Missions in San Antonio and they do a great job. 
 San Jose was just a short bike ride south of our location, and second in popularity to the Alamo.  It is still a working church, but the park service takes care of the grounds and the Diocese oversees the church. 
The missions were started to bring religion and security to the people in the area. Rock walls were built to surround the area and people established little apartments along the perimeter.



The guided tour of the mission was fantastic.

The active church of San Jose is beautiful inside and I am rather sure that services are in Spanish.

The ruins have been restored somewhat. There was a functional  building with a roof originally.

My saintly husband standing next to St. Anthony, patron saint of San Antonio.


TEXAS HILL COUNTRY


We spent a week in a condo in Bandera, TX, the Cowboy Capital of Texas, but I am not sure why it is called that. The most prevalent occupation is wine making with several hundred wineries in this part of the state.  We did enjoy visiting a few on a pleasant afternoon.  Sitting several miles off the main road were our favorites, Singing Water and Bending Branch.  People arrive with picnics, buy a bottle of wine and enjoy the atmosphere for a few hours.

There are plenty of hills with rocky soil and not a place I would associate with growing grapes.
  
Ranches are everywhere and you see mostly cattle grazing, but also several house with only  goats.  I wondered why I did not see more local cheese outlets for that reason.  A state park ranger told me the goats provide land tax relief.  All the goats do is wander around and expect little care, but are considered livestock on the property, hence lower taxes.

Our history lesson for the week included a visit to the Lyndon B. Johnson Texas White House.  The entire ranch is over 2000 acres, with 600 belonging to the state to maintain an historical site.  


They are accustomed to visitors taking a look and a picture.  You can see LBJ on his horn.

The ranch house is actually very simple and tastefully done.  President Johnson was born, died and buried on the property.  Lady Bird survived for 30 more years, living in this house until she went into assisted living in Austin.  The home through the years had updates, but original furniture was stored in anticipation of public viewing at some future date.   The tour was fantastic and included many of his cars and the plane used to transport LBJ to the Texas White House.  Many cabinet meeting were held under the oak tree to the left in the pictured.  



This is no Air Force One, but was used by Johnson and visiting dignitaries.

Our trip to the Hill Country ends as we motor west to Big Bend National Park.  It is the least visited park in the National System and perhaps we will find out why.  But we were told it is worth seeing anyway.